Karsten Moran for The New York Times
Buying
A member of the brassica family, which includes broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage and kale, cauliflower is pretty much always available, with stunning consistency in quality all year long. But farmers’ market shoppers may notice them start to show up in early fall and last until early winter.
Cauliflower heads at commercial grocery stores look fairly identical, often weighing about 1½ to 2 pounds with a uniform, ivory color — and almost always wrapped in plastic. But once you break out into smaller specialty groceries and farmers’ markets, size, shape and color can vary drastically — don’t be afraid! Orangey-yellow (or “Cheddar” cauliflower for its color, and not, unfortunately, because it tastes like cheese), purple and neon green specimens taste almost the same as the white ones and can be used interchangeably.
Regardless of color, size or where you’re buying them, choose heads of cauliflower that seem heavy for their size (fresher produce has higher water content and therefore weighs more) with tight, compact leaves and clusters of florets. Avoid any that feel soft or spongy or have dark spotting on the top, a sign they are past their prime.
A fresh head of cauliflower should last in your kitchen about a week, wrapped tightly in plastic or stored in a resealable bag in the refrigerator.
Karsten Moran for The New York Times
Preparing
Cauliflower’s shape lends itself to being intuitively broken down from one large floret into smaller and smaller florets with your hands or a knife. The size of floret desired will depend on preparation, but if you want steamed or roasted cauliflower florets, they should be relatively bite-size for even cooking and practical eating.
While many recipes call for them to be removed, the core and leaves are not only edible, but delicious. The core has a meatier, firmer texture than the florets, but its flavor is the same and should absolutely be included in all preparations. The tender, pale-green leaves, which taste almost like cabbage with a texture to match (they are from the same family, after all), should not be discarded. They can be left on or included in any preparation.
For some preparations (roasting, gratins, searing, grilling), it’s nice to slice the heads lengthwise through the core to keep the center-cut florets together, creating a thick slab. When doing this, nearly all the first attempted slices will crumble, but that’s O.K. (Save those crumbles to roast for extra-crunchy bits, or save them to throw into a salad.)
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